After spending a few days in Positano and exploring the Amalfi coast a bit, we dropped off our rental car in Sorrento (about a 40 min drive from Positano) and got on the ferry to Capri. There are ferries that run direct from Postiano and Amalfi in the summer months, but since the closest Hertz was in Sorrento, we left from there instead. Not gonna lie, the ferry situation was a lot more stressful for us then it should have been! For some reason it was very complicated to find the right ferry since we saw everyone in line had a later time on their ferry ticket. Turns out that they don’t really honor the times on your ticket, and as long as its within 3-4 hours of the ferry your getting on, your fine.
When the Ferry arrives you get off in the area called Marina Grande, which is the main port for Capri that’s bustling with tourists all scrambling to find out where to go. Most tourists only come for the day, so at night Capri takes on a different mood. If you have the time, I would definitely recommend booking a night or two (we stayed 3) and if you want to experience the night life then you should visit between Thursday and Saturday.
From Marina Grande you walk or can hop on the Funicular (cable car) to the town of Capri (Piazzetta), take the bus to Anacapri, or grab a taxi which I believe is about $30 to either town. If you are comfortable with driving, my advice is to rent a scooter. This is was so much fun and the most practical way of exploring the island, especially if your like me and hate wasting time waiting around for buses or spending a fortune on taxis. Our bnb host recommended a guy in the town of Anacapri named Vincenzo, and he ran his business out of his mom’s convenience store lol…. kinda sketch at first but he was actually super nice and rented the scooter to us for 100 Euro for 2 full days and 1 night.
For accommodations, we chose a Bed & Breakfast to stay at in Anacapri. It had the most beautiful view over looking the town however, it was a HIKE to get to and so steep that our scooter didn’t even have enough power to make it up the hill! We had to park at the bottom and walk 10 min up and down the steps every time we left the place. Also Anacapri is extremely quiet and I had thought that this was a great thing when I first did my research, however it is completely dead at night and all the best restaurants are in Capri town which is like a 15-20 min drive. If I had known, I would have definitely stayed in or around Capri town so it’s easier to walk to restaurants and enjoy the nightlife. Anacapri, while small is definitely worth a visit. It’s a cute village with lots of local shops and a nice break from the crowds of tourists.
Our favorite activity in Anacapri was the Monte Solaro chairlift which was a scenic and pleasant ride to the tippy top of Capri. Once you reach the summit and get off the chairlift, Monte Solaro soars 589 meters above sea level. It’s the highest and most panoramic point on the island, offering the most breathtaking views of all Capri.
We drove down to Faro beach a few times since it was the closest beach to where we were staying and was recommended by our bnb host. After we had lunch at Lido Del Faro, we decided to take a swim there and it turned out to be our favorite beach in Capri. Its a public beach that’s full of locals and very far away from the hoards of tourists. If your planning to spend the day, they also have a couple of beach clubs where you can rent chairs for the day.
The other public beach we liked was at Marina Piccola. We rented our boat out of this marina and admired all the locals lounging around at the beach and lunching at the nearby restaurants. If your looking for beaches to do the whole beach club experience then I would recommend making reservations at La Fontelina or Il Riccio beach club. FYI La Fontelina is an iconic place and super hard to get a reservation at during the summer months since they only allow reservations 3 days in advance.
When you’re in Capri, renting a boat is an absolute must! We rented ours from Capri Blue Boats and was one of the best experiences from our entire vacation. I found that the Italian style gozzo boats were the most authentic way to explore the island. We chose to rent ours without a skipper (driver) and drove the boat ourselves for the most private and adventurous experience. My fiance drove most of the time however when I did, I found it to be pretty straight forward and simple. We both grew up around boats and I actually have a boaters license so I would only recommend if you or someone your with has some kind of experience. We spent about 5 hours out on the water, which was spent driving around the entire island, exploring the grottos, driving under Faraglioni rock, eating lunch on the boat, and swimming in the caves and grottos. It was an experience I will never forget.
I found that our best dining experiences were in Positano however the restaurants that I would recommend the most from Capri are Da Paolino and Lido Del Faro. Da Paolino is one of the more famous restaurants in Capri since you dine under the lemon trees, just keep in mind that it is one of the more expensive restaurants that needs to be booked in advance. The other restaurant I really loved was Lido Del Faro. This restaurant is at Faro Beach (gorgeous!) and you must come to get the seafood there!
If you are looking for a place to grab a drink with a spectacular view then the best place to go is the rooftop bar at Hotel Luna. While walking over to Giardini di Augusto (the famous garden) we got side tracked and decided to enjoy their cocktails and complementary snacks with the most stunning view overlooking Faraglioni rock.
The only gelato you should be eating in Capri is from Buonocore Gelateria. This was the best gelato we had in Italy! You can watch the guy making the waffle cones right there in front of you! The cones are delicious and fresh but the actual gelato is just incredible! I’m still dreaming of The Fantasia de Capri and pistachio ice cream… SO GOOD!
When your getting off the ferry at Marina Grande and in need of a quick bite then head over to Salumeria Da Aldo for the best Italian sandwiches on Capri.
Some of other restaurants that would have been worth trying were Ristorante Mamma, Villa Margarita, and Michel’angelo. Be prepared to splurge on food in Capri because we found it hard to find great restaurants that were not super pricey!