John Stinebeck was once quoted saying “Positano bites deep. It is a dream place that isnt quite real when you are there and becomes beckoningly real after you have gone”. I really couldnt agree more… it truly is the most beautiful place I have ever seen and I am excited to share this Positano travel guide and our experience with you all!
Our Italian journey began in Rome and from there we then took the train down to Naples and rented a car to drive over to the Amalfi Coast. There are lots of great options for traveling around Amalfi coast like ferries, buses, shuttles, car services etc. however we were up for a little adventure and wanted the flexibility that the car offered to explore the neighboring towns. I will say my stomach turned a few times as we inched past huge buses and cars whipping around those narrow cliff roads, but its all in the fun! If you do decide to rent, I recommend going with Hertz since it was the cheapest at about 40 euro per day. The drive from Naples to Positano was about an hour and a half with Saturday traffic but once you hit the coastline from Sorrento to Positano, the views are just stunning.
We stayed in Positano town for 3 days then drove to Sorrento, dumped the car, and grabbed the ferry to Capri for 3 days. After Capri we picked up the car again in Sorrento and drove back to Positano but this time stayed in the the town of Montepertuso, a little village perched directly above Positano (on the map its still technically called Positano but its about a 35 min hike down over 1500 steps to the center of Positano). Montepertuso is about a 15 minute ride down to Positano by bus, and tickets are very inexpensive at 1,20 euros each. The Montepertuso bus also runs early morning to late at night, so it’s easy to spend all day down in Positano. Even though it was fun to see another village, my recommendation would be to stay in Positano town if you can find a room. I am not the biggest fan of going back and forth on the bus since it was crowded and always about 15 minutes late and we found that taxis back to Montepertuso we found were 30 euros.
We planned this trip 3 months before going which I found out was very last minute for Positano in particular. I had to scramble to find accommodations since everything was nearly sold out so try to book as early as you can because I had to DIG to find something. With some luck through airbnb I found the most stunning B&B called Casa Fioravante. We stayed in one of the downstairs rooms with the best view and it exceeded all of my expectations in terms of decor and views and at $250 a night, it was a steal! If your looking last minute then I think the best deals can be found on airbnb since many B&B’s in Italy post rooms on there. Head-sup though, unless your hotel is located on the main road then you will have to haul your luggage around the alleyways which are mostly all steps so unless you hire a porter or have a big strong man (lol) to carry it then I would try to pack as light as you can.
After we got to Positano town we parked at the garage our b&b host recommended (Fratelli Milano parking) which was the closest to where we stayed and with her discount deal we parked for 20 euro a day. Before you rent a car you should consider the parking cost since it is high for Positano at around 40 euro a day, so make sure to ask about parking with your hotel or host before going so you can plan what the cost will be.
Our B&B in Positano was in such a perfect location and was a beautiful walk down to the beach and center of town we also had so many great restaurants close by. Some of our favorites we ate at were Saraceno D’oro, Da Vincenzo, and Chez Black. Latteria market down the street also became a staple for coffee, wine, and a quick snack and was very reasonably priced.
If you are looking for a place for drinks and great views then I would suggest heading over to Il Tridente located in Hotel Poseidon and take in the stunning views over a glass of wine and complimentary munchies. This terrace has the most stunning views over town and the hotel also has a pool that anyone can use for a relatively small fee.
On the opposite side of town the other bar we loved was Francos at the Le Sirenuse hotel. Francos opens at 5pm and we waited in line 5 min before they opened for business and snatched a table with a view, however it was HOT! So if it’s super sunny try coming a little after 6pm right before the sun disappears over the mountain… it’s still light out but so much more pleasant haha.
After drinks at Francos we headed over to Terrazza Cele restaurant which I booked for my fiances 3oth birthday dinner. I had originally tried booking La Sponda at Le Sirenuse about a month and a half before our vacation and they were booked all summer! I got on the waitlist and tried dropping in a couple times and calling in case they had cancellations, however I was unsuccessful so we went to Terrazza Cele which I booked as a back up. We sat on their romantic garden terrace which had stunning views and ate from their 5 course menu which was excellent.
While staying in Montepertuso we ate at La Tagliata restaurant. This is a family run restaurant with a breathtaking view set high over Positano. The restaurant sent a car to pick us up in Montepertuso and we were one of the first people to arrive, however it was worth it since we grabbed a table with a stunning view just in time for sunset. They don’t have any set menu, its 40 euro per person and your served whatever they are cooking that night with a bottle of their own wine. The dinner went on very long though since there was a lack in service (almost an hour) to get the bill after dessert. It’s because of this that I would recommend trying this restaurant if you are already staying in Montepertuso or in Nocelle. They have free shuttles to and from Positano, however Im not sure if its worth the trek unless you want to plan a long night around dinner. Another restaurant that came highly recommended in Montepertuso was a place called Il Ritrovo.
Beaches/ Beach Clubs:
Positano has many beach options. Spiaggia Grande is the main beach in Positano. Here you will find chairs for rent as well as an open area where you can use your own chair or beach towel.
Then we have Fornillo Beach, just a short walk from Spiaggia Grande, is smaller and less crowded, with a more laid back atmosphere and lots of locals. Here you will find multiple beach clubs with chair rentals available for about 8-10 euro each depending if your in the back or front of the beach. You can grab drinks and lunch at the beach clubs or before heading down to the beach, grab some Italian sandwiches and antipasta from a deli to enjoy on the beach.
A beach experience not to miss is heading over to the dock next to Spiaggia grande beach and grabbing a boat to one of the more secluded beaches. The boat rides to the the other beaches are complimentary and great way to take in the stunning views of town from the water. All of the beach clubs, send boats to the docks every 30 minutes from 10AM to 1PM – and then returning starting at 3 PM. Make sure to make lunch reservations at the beach clubs in addition to reserving chairs – formal seating time is usaully 1PM. The lunch rush is real and they book quick, make reservations at least a month in advance!
We decided we wanted to go over to Da Adolfo for lunch, since I heard that it has a great restaurant. I didnt realize how early lunch reservations booked up and so the day before I had tried calling about reservations multiple times with no luck so I went over to the dock and asked the captain about how to get in and he told us to come the next day at 10:30-11 am so that’s what we did. There someone else working the boat that day so we just told him we had reservations to get on the boat and got on the waitlist for lunch once we got there and hung out on at the beach club until lunch started (We got a table not too long after their first seating starting at 1 pm). Another great secluded beach club I would have loved to try is Bagni d Arienzo if we had more time.
SHOP THE POST:
My fashion advice for this area is to find cute white, yellow, and pastel colored breezy dresses, tops, and bottoms. So many people looked so cute on the streets in lemon prints, florals, polka dots, and striped outfits! I packed a ton of white clothes with lace and eyelet details to come here since it always looks fresh and pretty in photos. My best advice, however is to pack comfortable shoes… ugh! I always cringe saying that, but after I almost broke my foot in Rome from wearing my new platform sandals I learned my lesson for the rest of the trip! I picked up these Leather wrap sandles at Zara before I left for vacation and basically lived in them for the entire trip!